Bangkok - Chiang Mai

Our first stop was Bangkok, where we stayed at the CH Guest House in Banglamphu—a favorite among backpackers. I’ve always stayed at the same place whenever I visit. The people there were great, the place was reasonably clean, and the food was excellent. It’s located at the quieter end of Khao San Road, away from the main hustle and bustle when the night markets come alive.

Khao San Road is a backpacker’s paradise—it truly has everything. At night, the streets transform into a vibrant hub, bustling with street vendors pushing carts and selling fruits, chicken satay, many different kinds of desserts, and a wide variety of foods. Some items might seem unusual at first, but I have to admit, some of the bugs taste pretty good.

Justin is hanging out of a tuk-tuk in the streets of Bangkok.

The Chao Phraya River is the lifeblood of Bangkok, winding through the city alongside a network of smaller canals. These waterways were once the main transportation routes, with many people living along the riverbanks. Boats were essential for daily travel trading goods, connecting communities throughout the region.

John, Justin, Robyn, and I took a long-tail boat ride up the Chao Phraya River. (Photo taken by Glenn.) Meanwhile, John was still trying to figure out how his camera worked. Along the river, you can see rows of houses lining the banks, a glimpse into life on the water.

Me with a snake draped around my neck at the Snake Temple.

One of many crocodiles at the farm.
We went in to watch the snake show — the handler had three snakes but only two hands to manage them! After the show, they demonstrated how they milk the snakes for venom.

That night, Glen (Hougie) and I went out looking for a nightclub but ended up at a Thai bar with traditional Thai dancing. I had a great time soaking in the local culture.

The next day, we visited the Doi Suthep Temple in Chiang Mai. You can see Robyn, Justin, and John standing below the left dragon; there were around 125 stairs leading up to the top. At the summit, hill tribe people sell handmade products, showcasing their unique crafts.

Next, we embarked on a 5-day trek through the northern part of Chiang Mai, exploring the Chiang Dao Mountains staying overnight in local villages.

Our first stop was a village where we spent the night. I even tried smoking a pipe of opium — an experience I won’t forget.

The two English girls rode on an elephant as we prepared for the four-hour journey to the next stop. Robyn and Glen joined in on the elephant walk — what an incredible experience it was! I especially loved the elephant portion of the trek.

We entered the caves inside the Chiang Dao Mountains, using bamboo torches to light our way through the pitch-black darkness. When we emerged on the other side, we found a group resting — a mosquito buzzing around, an English girl rolling a cigarette, and a mate playing guitar. It was a perfect spot to catch our breath and take in the surroundings.

Next came a five-hour rafting trip down the Mae Kok River — easily the best part of the trek. We faced a few obstacles and some crashes along the way, but it was all part of the fun, especially when I floated behind the bamboo raft. In the calmer stretches, I drifted downstream, letting the gentle current carry me along the river.

The English girl (I can’t remember her name) was making some breakfast or coffee, while the opium doctor enjoyed a cigarette and his coffee.

Thailand is home to six major hill tribes—the Akha, Lahu, Karen, Hmong, Yao, and Lisu—each with their own distinct language and culture. These tribal peoples inhabit the northern regions of Thailand, near the borders of Myanmar (Burma) and Laos.

Our last stop before heading back to Chiang Mai was a market in a tourist area, where the different hill tribes came to sell their traditional clothing and crafts to Western visitors.

The next day, we arrived back in Chiang Mai, rented motorbikes, and rode up to Doi Suthep Temple. Along the way, we stopped at one of the many waterfalls and swim holes—perfect spots to cool off after a bit of a hike. We also walked up to the Doi Suthep waterfall, a refreshing break on the journey.

As we climbed higher, we saw monks making their way up to the temple at the summit, which offers a fantastic view of Chiang Mai below. Near the top, there was a small village where a hill tribe woman was busy making clothing to sell.

After returning to Bangkok from Chiang Mai, we stayed at the CH Guest House on Khao San Road, where i always stay Unfortunately, Robyn fell very ill and had to be hospitalized for a few days due to severe dehydration. Before she left, I gave her a map and detailed directions to Bottle Beach on Ko Pha Ngan in the Gulf of Thailand.

Her journey was long: an overnight train from Bangkok to Surat Thani (about 8 hours), followed by a 4-hour ferry to Koh Samui, then another ferry to Ko Pha Ngan. Once on the island, she took a taxi to the north near Chulaklam, and finally a 20-minute long-tail boat ride around to Bottle Beach.

The four of us guys figured Robyn would give up and wait in Bangkok for us, but she was determined to make the trip.

Koh Phangan

After about six days on the island, someone showed up on the long-tail boat — yes, she made it! We were all really impressed that she managed to travel from Bangkok to Koh Phangan by herself I could tell she was very proud of herself.

Our journey started with the overnight train to Surat Thani, followed by a ferry ride to Ko Samui, and then another ferry to Ko Pha Ngan.

We met up with Peter and Dani in Bangkok, and they came to the island with us. It’s not the first time—I always manage to catch up with Peter whenever I’m in Thailand.

Arriving at the beautiful Bottle Beach (Haad Kuad) on Ko Pha Ngan was such a treat. We stayed at Sea Love Bungalows. On Bottle Beach, there are three main places to stay: OD Bungalows, which sit on the rocks, Bottle Beach Bungalows, and Sea Love Bungalows. I’ve stayed here about five times and have found Sea Love to be the best spot.

Mr. Rod, the owner of Sea Love, has been like a second father to me. I first stayed here back in 1989 for around two months, and he kindly gave me a bungalow at the back, away from everything. He is just a great guy.

Nit and Neung worked the front desk at Sea Love Bungalows.
The two girls who ran the restaurant there were Yung (left) and Mai. Interestingly, Yung means “mosquito” in English, and Mai means “new.”

Gary is from New Zealand—just one of the many great people we met on the island.

The restaurant offered sweeping views of the bay—turquoise waters gently lapping the shore, lush palm-fringed hills in the distance, and fishing long-tails bobbing in the sunlit sea.

Mr. Rod kindly gave me the same bungalow as last year, tucked away at the back—peaceful and quiet. I set up the hammock on the porch and sank in, ready to unwind.

Here’s the bungalow he reserved for me

Robyn wasn’t taking any chances with dehydration this time—she always had a bottle of water with her.

At the top of this picture, you can see a large rock. Back in 1989, I’d led about seven different groups up to this spot; on this visit, it was only the one trip. The climb takes roughly three hours up and two-and-a-half hours back down. From the summit, you’re rewarded with a full 360° panorama.

A few of the guys who did the trek with me.

Atop the rock, everyone relaxed and soaked in the view.

Justin is resting his feet after the climb.

Pam (Canadian) and Bev (German) are enjoying the scenery.

Looking down on Bottle Beach from the summit.

Pam, from Canada, and Bev, from Germany, were enjoying the scenery.

This photo shows the view from the top of the rock, looking down onto Bottle Beach.

After the climb to the top of the rock, everyone was sitting around sharing stories. In the first picture, you can see Peter (left, at the back). I’ve met up with Peter on nearly every trip I’ve taken in Thailand, especially to the islands. Like me, he loves Thailand—the food, the sun, and the relaxed vibe of the people who travel there.

The next day, we walked over to Paradise Bungalows. Joe and his wife, Gai, used to manage Sea Love Bungalows for Mr. Rod for a few years before deciding to start their own business. It’s just around from Chaloklum—about a 1½-hour walk. I stopped by to visit and ended up staying the night at their place. It was quiet and peaceful; they have around eight bungalows in total.

Here’s Joe, Gai, their daughter, and the reception staff at Paradise Bungalows.

Joe is behind the counter at his restaurant, Paradise Bungalows.

Glen passed out on my veranda while Gary relaxed in my night hammock. I actually had two hammocks set up—one for the day and another for the night—so I could lie back, listen to music, and enjoy a smoke. What a way to live! Now I understand why I stayed so long last year. It’s a shame I had to go back to work.

I think Glen was pretty happy too.

Well, it’s time to leave the island and head back to Bangkok to fly home. We waited for the long-tail boat to take us to Chaloklum.

Robyn, Glen, and John at Thong Sala Pier on Ko Samui, ready to catch the ferry to Surat Thani and then the train to Bangkok.

I think the train host had a bit of a crush on John.
A beautiful sunset viewed from the train window.

Loung and Sai worked at the CH Guest House on Khao San Road in Bangkok. They’ve been there every time I’ve visited over the last four years—friendly and funny girls who always made the stay enjoyable.

Loung, with that cheeky smile.

This trip felt different. I usually travel solo, meeting new people along the way, but this time I brought along some great friends from home—and we had an absolute blast. There’s something special about exploring a foreign country with close mates: sharing the highs and the lows, laughing at each other’s misadventures, and yes, overindulging in drinks and smokes. Those unforgettable moments—both the wild and the wonderful—made this holiday one I’ll never forget.